Vovem: An Asador with Va-Va-Voom!


We are already dedicated fans of the Vovem Asador in Nueva Andalucía, so were obviously keen as mustard to test drive the team’s other establishment in Marbella’s Paseo Maritimo. Since its opening in June it has become a popular venue for discerning carnivores, with its range of top quality steaks and meat.

The location could scarcely be better, as Vovem’s Marbella branch stands on Avenida de Ahumada, directly opposite the Puerto Deportivo which, with its lovely terrace, makes it the perfect venue for enjoying a cocktail or two as the sun sets over the Mediterranean.

Inside wood and chesterfield sofas dominate, the cosy but elegant décor inviting diners to relax and enjoy an evening spent in the company of a team completely obsessed by providing customers with the best produce available on the Coast. To ensure that they stock only the best meat, Head Chef Enzo and the team use the services of 10 suppliers and say that some of the meats are hung for 90 days before being deemed sufficiently full of flavour.

Of course, no five-star meal would be complete without a good wine and Vovem scores points here too, with a well-equipped bodega and staff members who can offer recommendations if necessary.
Offering diners a warm welcome without overwhelming them is a skill that many restaurants would do well to master – even here on the Coast, where service is generally of the highest standard – but the Vovem team has this down pat. Chef Enzo and his team offered us the benefit of their knowledge without overcomplicating the process of ordering our food.

Every dish that we tasted was a real declaration of intent from an establishment dedicated to serving the best meat on the Coast: the Wagyu Black Pudding Cannelloni with Oporto Gelatine and Caramel tasted as spectacular as it sounded (consider this a SOCIETY favourite), while we also adored the Suckling Pig with Homemade Sweet Potato Sauce.

If you aren’t quite so carnivorous and plan to visit Vovem with friends, don’t panic – there are some dishes that will suit you. We can wholeheartedly recommend the Avocado Cannelloni filled with Prawns and Carabineros, which is presented in a way that makes it look like a leaf – not at all what you might expect from a meat restaurant. Another dish that is superbly tasty yet suitable for non-meat eaters is the Caramelised Cod, which is a treat for the most discerning pescetarian.

However, you will find that it is very often Marbella’s steak lovers who are beating a path to both Vovem venues to enjoy the best food in town. If you are one of them do make sure that you arrive in a state of advanced hunger and order the Rib-Eye Steak. We were told that this had been imported from the Netherlands and aged for 45 days before being cooked and served at our table. The customer can choose how the steak is cooked and select a range of delicious accompaniments, which include black or lemon salt or salt with spices. We opted for the Pepper Sauce, which was the perfect foil for the deep richness of the meat.

If, like us, your evenings out involve sharing plates of food then Vovem is a wonderful place to go, because this is actively encouraged. Discover the flavours on your neighbour’s plate and – you never know – it’s possible that you will find yourself ordering the dish that they have chosen next time you visit and, believe us, you will most definitely want to return.

There was one final treat for our sweet-toothed party at the end of the evening. The Brazil Voyage consisted of a Caipirinha served with Lemon Mousse, Sorbet and Vanilla Jelly and contained the perfect hit of citrus to contrast with the previous dishes.

Whether you are a resident or a visitor hoping to find a venue specialising in traditional Spanish cuisine, you cannot beat Vovem. This imaginative reboot of the classic asador looks well placed to be one of the culinary revelations of the year.

Copyright 2016 Society Magazine, All Rights Reserved.