LA MAR MARBELLA - A risk worth taking
It’s risky business opening a restaurant during the pandemic but for new all-day eatery, La Mar, a spot on the paseo was too good to miss. And after being open just three months, it’s already become a go-to spot for those ‘in-the-know’.
Owned by Dutch family and friends, Willem Wolthuis, Marga Dekker, Jerge Ladru, Stijn Wolthuis, Noortje Wolthuis, and Nicky Bölte, there’s a real sense of camaraderie between them; so friendly and welcoming, their cheerfulness and passion are infectious.
La Mar is open from 10am to midnight, serving French-Asian cuisine - though a full English has crept onto the breakfast menu.
For brunch, tuck into poached eggs, avocado and salmon on toast or light and fluffy pancakes, with fruit or even bacon.
From lunchtime onwards, the full menu is available, with a huge selection of small and large plates that are perfect for sharing.
My friend and I dined at La Mar in the evening and sat out on the large terrace. To start, we had a passionfruit cocktail, followed by ceviche and spring rolls.
The ceviche was delicately cured with lime, and served on a bed of sliced avocado, topped with pickled onions, offering a nice contrasting texture to the soft fish. The spring rolls came with a sweet chilli dipping sauce, and were some of the best I’ve had on the Costa del Sol. They were lightly fried, golden and crisp, and the vegetables still had a good crunch.
As we waited for our mains we swapped from cocktails to wine, selecting a perfectly cold bottle of Albariño - always a safe bet.
Soon our table was filled with a beautiful spread of food: tempura prawn and salmon sushi, duck pancakes, lobster ravioli and seared tuna.
We enjoyed building our own pancakes, topping the duck with the classic accompaniments of cucumber, spring onion and hoisin sauce, and creating a delicious little bundle.
Our favourite dish was the lobster ravioli. Chefs at La Mar make the pasta fresh every day, filling the ravioli with perfectly seasoned chunks of lobster meat, and poaching them in salted water for just a few minutes, until slightly al dente.
The lobster shells are used to make a bisque for the sauce. It was heavenly; rich and deep in flavour, with a touch of truffle - the kind of sauce that begs for a slice of crusty bread so you can mop up every last drop.
As you can expect, the tuna was beautifully seared, served on a bed of wok-fried vegetables, a bright pink puree, and a wedge of lime on the side.
Believe it or not, we still had room for dessert. And when they’re all made in-house, it’s hard to say no. We chose three classics: crème brûlée, cheesecake, and a chocolate fondant.
The crème brûlée was surprisingly light, with perfectly set vanilla custard and a thin layer of caramelized sugar (it passed the back of the spoon tap test).
If you like chocolatey desserts, the chocolate fondant is for you: warm, soft cake with an oozing middle, sat on top of crushed blackcurrants, offering a nice acidic contrast to the rich cocoa.
The baked cheesecake was also a winner, and surprisingly light too. It was accompanied by vanilla ice cream, a dark fruit couli, fresh mint and sugar tuile - a wonderful way to finish a heavenly meal.
As much passion has gone into the design of this restaurant as it has the food, with each detail carefully considered from start to finish.
Inside, the decor is chic - sort of boho vibes, with a miss-match of low hanging wooden lights, colourful vases, exotic plants and large ferns.
One of the main features is the open bar, lined with stalls, where guests can sit and watch head mixologist, Jaron Burt, create a custom-made cocktail.
The terrace (where we sat), while more simplistic, is just as appealing, with views across the ocean - a lovely spot to watch the sun set, or to simply sit and people-watch.
P.º Marítimo, 7, 29602 Marbella, Málaga | +31 652 722 666