Always on my mind. La Fonda Heritage Hotel.

In the buzzing heart of Marbella Old Town, lies a hidden gem. The La Fonda Heritage Luxury Hotel can be described as a tranquil oasis, which not only boasts a rich history dating back to the 16th century, but refined restaurants, exquisite food, chic decor with a touch of elegance and charm which is unrivalled locally.

Before dinner we were kindly invited to take a tour of the hotel. La Fonda Heritage Luxury Hotel is complete with three dining venues, 20 individually designed bedrooms and a roof terrace, with spectacular panoramic views of the vibrant square and the Santo Cristo church. Our tour alluded to the intriguing history of the hotel, which lay derelict until the end of the last century. Archaeological digs unearthed one of the most extraordinary discoveries in Marbella of recent times, the nave of a 16th century church and the Hermitage of San Sebastian, now perfectly preserved dining spaces. Life has been documented within these walls for over a thousand years, a highly unusual fact for a building located in a small Spanish fishing village. As the saying goes, if only these walls could talk… I am certain that these would have fascinating stories to tell…

Tour complete, it was now time to eat. Tonight we would be dining at Jane, a restaurant which fuses traditional Andalusian and Mediterranean produce with international flavours. Each dish carefully curated by the talented team in the pristine and spacious open kitchen. Boy was I looking forward to this! 

The outdoor setting is beautifully decorated and flooded with natural light and tropical greenery, a perfect setting for a summer evening. As is “de rigueur” on such occasions, we commenced the impending feast, by turning our eye to the specialist cocktail menu and after learning that none other than the “King of Rock” and his wife once frequented this establishment, the “Priscilla”cocktail seemed to be the only viable choice. I hope it’s served “all shook up.” Apologies, blame my dad for that bit!

Our dinner consisted of a carefully selected degustation menu, in which we would sample dishes especially prepared and chosen for us by the Chef. First up for the starters, was a modern take on the traditional Andalusian Ajoblanco, (or white gazpacho.) The garlic, blanched almond and bread-based Malagueñan soup, was copiously creamy, whilst the tangy combination of garlic and vinegar was expertly offset by the sweet grapes. This soup was accompanied by stuffed baby squid, a delightful combination and a truly flavoursome representation of our southern region. Lapped up in seconds, the scrumptious soup prepared our pallets for what was to come.

Our next visual delight was the red mullet  couscous, nestled on a bed of atlas spiced grains, as the aromatic spices melted exquisitely into the red mullet caramel jus. The dish comes complete with a delicious fricassee of Bouchet mussels and Osetra caviar,  positively encapsulating the essence of fine dining. The final starter to arrive was the Langoustines cooked in a sea lettuce juice, served on a samphire salad, grilled peaches and cucumber pickled in a vermouth vinegar. The fresh combination of sweetness from the peaches and saltiness from the samphire, complimented the delicate langoustines, while the vermouth infused cucumber added a crisp bitterness to each bite. In my opinion, the alluring and unique variety of starters on offer is worth the visit alone.

For the main event we were first presented with a succulent Galician T-bone steak. The tasty meat had been matured for 30 days and cooked slowly in the Josper wood fire oven, making it juicy and fragrant. Served with both a Criolla and truffle sauce, as well as salted vegetables in a miso butter. This dish was simply heavenly. Last but not least of the savoury dishes was the Red Tuna Loin in a Biscay sauce. The thick, meaty tuna was delectably fresh and paired well with  wild Spanish bimi, a vegetable I had never had the pleasure of tasting before this meal, but has now become a personal favourite. The addition of Cantabrian anchovies added a lovely tanginess to the dish in a wonderful array of the flavours of Spain.

Having consumed the main courses, I didn’t think I had  any room left desert, however, my mind soon changed, once I set my eyes on the sweet delights brought forth to the table. I immediately directed my spoon towards the cherry pavlova. The crunch of the pavlova was elevated by the luscious pistachio whipped cream, whilst the almond ice cream and hibiscus tea complimented the fresh sour cherries. Not being a chocolate girl, I was apprehensive to try the 80% dark chocolate Palet Breton cookie. Nevertheless, I was pleasantly  surprised by the chocolatey treat, as the gorgeous raw cream ice cream and fresh fig salad balanced the moorish richness of the cookie. It was a dining experience I didn’t want to end, but end it had. India has left the building.

Jane restauant

lafondaheritagehotel.com